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Bress

Spitbucket | 6 July 2011
Wineries
" founded by Adam Marks in 2001, notching up its tenth anniversary this year. "


Bress is a small winery, focused on high quality wines, situated at Harcourt in the Bendigo region of Victoria. It was founded by Adam Marks in 2001, notching up its tenth anniversary this year. Adam has extensive experience, including time with Rob Dolan at Yarra Ridge and with David O'Leary on behalf of Wolf Blass (or whatever corporate version thereof that they were at the time) in Chile. The focus is pinot noir and shiraz. Local vineyards are key, but there is much more to this emerging star.

Bress Entrance


When Adam and his wife, Lynne, bought the property, it contained Australia's largest cider apple orchard – nine different varieties. In addition, four different varieties of pear, also for making cider. There were also 34 acres of vineyards, containing 17 different varieties – the proverbial fruit salad. He has reduced this to 18 acres, dumping the non-performers. There were, after all, four different, rarely seen, varieties which were really only ever used in the making of Portuguese port. Remember that this is a region colder than the Yarra Valley, while the Douro is very much at the other end of the spectrum. Adam now has riesling, cabernets sauvignon and franc, and shiraz. He sources other varieties from various regions – notably pinot noir – but also semillon and sauvignon blanc from the West and chardonnay, pinot and gewurztraminer from Macedon. And notwithstanding his own shiraz, he also looks to Heathcote.

Bress Team



It is obvious that Adam is very much prepared to think outside the traditional square, notwithstanding his training with the big companies – indeed, part of his philosophy is to ensure that he enjoys his job, and he seems to be succeeding with that. When his 2008 Rosé wouldn't behave during fermentation, he subsequently blended it with the following vintage, creating a 2008.5 Rosé (quite what the bureaucrats will think of that, I’d love to know, but there is no attempt to do anything dodgy as it is all detailed on the label – quite how Elie is going to fit it into our Notes/Review section is intriguing me, as it seems designed for full years only). He also has a Sparkling Shiraz made from carbonation. This was a quantity of 2008 fruit that refused to ferment and so was turned into a delicious spurgles. This was a one-off, though there is a 'standard' sparkler in the works.

Bress vineyards are all farmed biodynamically, in accordance with the principles established by Austrian Rudolph Steiner in the 1920's.

Vineyard


The wines fall into levels, depending on where Adam feels the quality sits – Silver Chook, Gold Chook (technically Silver Label and Gold Label but everyone, Adam especially, uses the poultry names) and Le Grand Coq, the latter rarely achieved, with a 2007 Pinot Noir and a 2009 Shiraz. These are single vineyard wines and only ever up to three barrels. There are a couple in the pipeline.

For a look at individual wines, please refer to our 'Review' section.

Article By: Ken Gargett

© 2012 Spitbucket

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